Synagogues on Synagogues

Thinking back on what I’ve done this past week has made me realize just how fast time is flying by. For a while the weather in Texas was colder than it was here in Prague, which was mind-blowing for me! Before coming here, everyone had described Prague as “bone-chillingly cold” and “the coldest place in Europe,” so like any born and raised Texan, I FREAKED OUT. I am happy to say that I have not needed to wear my snow boots since the day we arrived, and the weather has been pretty nice. The lack of sun here is something that I will have to get used to, but besides that Prague is absolutely beautiful! I have only been taking Czech for about a week, and we have already had a midterm. I’ve learned how to say Czech greetings, numbers up to 20, days of the week, and a little bit more. There are only 3 more days until the final exam- wish me luck!

This Wednesday and Thursday my Czech class had two field trips: Radio Free Europe and a Slovak art exhibit. Radio Free Europe is actually paid for by US tax dollars. Started during communist times, Radio Free Europe broadcasts unbiased news to countries formally ruled by the Soviet Union including Russia, the Middle East, Central Asia, the Balkans, and much of Eastern Europe. It was so interesting to see how it all operates, and to meet some of the radio staff. The next day we went to the art exhibit that depicted the history of the Slovaks, and it had extremely beautiful paintings that were bigger than any artwork I had seen before.

Thursday's field trip to the art exhibit

Friday morning at 8am, we left the dorm for the first mandatory excursion with ECES. I slept for the entire two and a half hour bus ride before arriving at Rabstejn, a World War II aircraft factory underground complex. Jan Stary, an ECES professor who teaches Photography, acted as our translator throughout the excursion, and we learned so much about this former labor camp, in addition to seeing one too many spiders and bats. The underground complex was never discovered by the Allies after WWII, so many parts are still in the conditions that they were left in after the war while the rest has been converted into a museum.

The entrance to the underground complex

Models of the airplanes that were made in Rabstejn

We lit candles in memory of those who died in the labor camp. Each stone represents the different countries they came come. 

On the way to Rabstejn, Casey and I noticed an adorable little castle at the edge of a cliff and wondered what it was used for. To our surprise, that was where we ended up eating lunch! Like I said, it was on top of a cliff. So despite my being in tip top shape (ha..) I basically died walking up the steepest hill I have ever encountered. Someone nicknamed it “Satan’s Hill”, and I couldn’t agree more. The restaurant had a gorgeous view of Decin, which is in the northwestern part of Bohemia, and the food was delicious. 

The castle on the cliff where we ate lunch! I wish I got a picture of the cliff. 

The beautiful view from lunch

After lunch, we went to the synagogue in Decin. There, we were entranced by the amazing storytelling of Mr. Achab Haidler, who apparently is a relatively famous actor in the area. In his lecture, he explained a lot about Judaism and the importance of why people of different faiths should respect one another. While the synagogue no longer holds services, it was cool to learn about the history of Judaism in this part of Eastern Europe. We also met a man who led the reconstruction of the synagogue. I did not catch his name, but he was one of the sweetest people I have ever met. He showed us his medals from races he had won and pictures of himself when he was younger. He did not hesitate to give us hugs, and to introduce us to his daughter who now is in charge of the synagogue’s operations.

Decin Synagogue

The sweet old man at the synagogue. I just had to take a picture of him!

Yesterday, Z led another walking tour. This walk was much more practical, and he answered any questions that we had about Prague and showed us how to get to the most important places, like the AIFS office and class. (Yeah I know, it’s sad that I still didn’t know how to get to either of those places until yesterday and we're going on our third week. I don’t know what I would do without Z!) He also took us to the grocery and showed us all of his favorite foods, and translated any foods that we did not understand (aka distinguishing between different types of cheese and meats that I seriously needed help with). Afterwards Z took us to Jubilee Synagogue, a reform synagogue that was absolutely beautiful. When we first turned the corner onto Jerusalem street, the first thing I said was “wow that building is so beautiful!” before realizing that it was the synagogue. Hopefully I’ll have the chance to go inside for services while I’m here!

Jubilee Synagogue

Next we went to the railway station, where outside there is a statue of Woodrow Wilson which was created to express gratitude for his contribution to the creation of an independent Czechoslovakia after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Also in the railway station was a statue of Nicholas Winton, who saved over 600 children during the holocaust. Many of us were brought to tears as Z explained Winton’s story, and how he was reunited years later with many of the children who he once saved years later on BBC.  After Z’s tour, I had my first experience alone in the city. I was able to navigate my way to meet up with Casey and her friends, and was really proud! Not having the step-by-step directions provided by 4G makes it a lot harder to read an iPhone map!

The Statue of Nicholas Winton with children he saved during WWII

Woodrow Wilson statue

After dinner, we went to quite the interesting museum…. Before coming to Prague, I was told that the Sex Machine Museum was a must-see. I definitely saw some things that I’ve never seen before, and some that I hope to never see again. Overall an exciting and unique experience! I’ll spare my parents and relatives by not posting any pictures from the museum.

Today Natalie and I decided to find a café to call ours. Anyone who knows me knows that I am obsessed with chocolate, so when I heard about Choco-Café, with the thickest hot chocolate in Prague I thought I couldn’t go wrong. I never though I would say a cup of hot chocolate was too rich and for me. I can’t believe I didn’t like it! Also the wifi there didn’t work, so Natalie and I wondered around Prague until we found Jan Paukert, my new favorite café! In addition to desserts of all kinds, they serve every open-faced sandwich imaginable and I ordered the roast beef. Delicious.

Unfortunately my ever-present allergies still exist here in Prague, despite my hopes that it was just a Texas thing. I may be allergic to the world, but I’m determined to find a place where they will go away! So here is my itinerary of trips throughout Europe. I guess I’m traveling for other reasons, too….

• February 20: excursion with ECES to Terezín Former Concentration Camp and Ghetto Museum
• February 28-March 1: Moravia with AIFS
• March 6-9: Budapest with friends
• March 13-16: potentially going to Romania to see friends from UT on their alternative spring break trip
• March 21-23: Poland with AIFS to see Krakow and Auschwitz
• March 28-30: Berlin with AIFS
• April 3-6: Geneva, Switzerland with friends. Maybe I’ll learn to ski while I’m there?
• April 11-13: Vienna, Austria though AIFS
• April 17-21: Paris with friends. Hoping to see friends from home who are studying abroad while we are there.
• May 1-4: Croatia with friends
• May 9-11: Salzburg and Southern Bohemia with AIFS

By the way, if you want to send me a package or write me a letter, this is the address:

Carly Miller- AIFS

Vodičkova 28

110 00 Prague 1

Czech Republic

Haven’t been pickpocketed yet (or even lost my phone!!!!),

Carly